Denim Jacket Collection
Piggybacking off of indi-raw's impressive collection post, here's my rotation of denim jackets. The oldest one here is the Tellason and the newest is the Buzz Rickson, but none of them get the wear they should cause it's so hot in Texas most of the year.
Up first an Iron Heart 14oz modified type 3 in indigo overdyed black. Like most things Iron Heart the fabric and construction is phenomenal, but the cut leaves a lot to be desired. That's the case here. I got this jacket hoping for a go anywhere do anything kind of piece, instead I got a really beautiful jacket that only works with a narrow range of bottoms because of how long and lean it is. A slim jean like a 13mwz? Hell yeah. Anything straight cut with a bit of thigh room? Not happening unless I want to look bottom heavy. I've been experimenting with it a bit this year as a layering piece, and that's honestly where it's likely to get the majority of use going forward.
Number 2, a Buzz Rickson x William Gibson b/w type 1. I posted about this when I got it, but I really love everything about this jacket. The cut is spot on, with a dropped shoulder and short body that works equally well with slim bottoms as it does with loose ones. The chest pocket is also surprisingly practical and I find myself using it more than I've ever used any chest pocket on a type 3. The slightly lower stance and open top makes it so easy to just chuck things in there, and I find myself not really missing the handwarmers nearly as much as I thought I would (I just put my hands in my jeans pockets if needed). I envision this one getting year round wear because of how light it is.
Number 3 is a Tellason coverall in 16.5oz selvedge. I dont wear this nearly as much as I should (it's still stiff after 2 years...). The cut looks really flattering on, and the pockets would make Rick Owens proud. My only hangups with it are the lack of gusseted sleeves (you can see a crease in the back from where it pulls every time I raise my arms) and the stitching on the bottom of the right hand pocket that keeps it from doubling as a hardwarmer. Though now that I type this I realize I can just pop that out with a seam ripper so scratch that off the list. This one works well standalone, but works even better with a soft outer layer like a longer corduroy coat or chamois shirt over top. The denim gives the softer outer layer some structure, and the bits of indigo peeking out add great depth to an outfit.
Number 4 is probably my most worn denim jacket, a miUSA Wrangler 124MJ. This one is a 70s model as evidenced by the larger collar and numeric sizing. The cut is a perfect type 3. Very slim, tapered body that ends right above the hip, with high arm holes for full range of motion (also comes in long sizes for the tall boys out there). The broken twill seems to be a bit more lustrous than what Wrangler is currently using, but it's close enough that I regularly make a tux out of it. And the handwarmer pockets aren't the best designed but they work in a pinch.