Complete ABS Removal 2015 KTM 690 Enduro R-Supermoto

I have been converting my Enduro R to Supermoto for the last several years. The entire time I have had problems with the brakes. Specifically the ABS functionality. I went to bleed the system a couple weeks ago and saw dirt and rust in the brake fluid. Realizing you can’t rebuild the front master cylinder, it kicked off this project. I’ve seen lots of discussions about completely removing the ABS system on these KTM’s. Piecing together the factual information, I finally got it done. I do not recommend doing this. I’m not gonna be liable for anyone not paying attention. But it has worked out beautifully.

Here’s a quick list of what I’ve done so far and some of the hiccups I’ve had: •Front Master Cylinder from 2019 Yamaha MT09-ebay seller exxxtremecycle. He’s in Florida and I’m in Atl. I buy a lot from him. • The MT/FZ master cylinder is axial rather than radial. Since it’s coming off a dual rotor bike, I thought a radial like an R6 would be too much. Also, the most important thing I wanted in a master cylinder was serviceability. If allballs Racing doesn’t have a rebuild kit, then I didn’t even look at it. You’ll need to cut the stock brake light switch and wire up to the new switch that hopefully comes with your master cylinder.

• Custom MX brake lines from Core Moto. I originally ordered for the stock master cylinders so the front one didn’t work perfectly. I’ve re-ordered a new front line. The rear worked out great: • This is how you order it on their website. Front: proper end fitting (i needed straight, but you might need angled), length1-2 19”, 2-3(stiffener) 23”, 3-4 14”, Straight fitting at caliper. I originally had it much shorter and with angled fittings. But I can’t even attempt a wheelie without it pulling hard on the line.

•Rear: 90deg forward fitting at master, length1-2 18”, 2-3(stiffener) 8”, 3-4 8”, 45deg forward fitting at caliper. I moved the hydraulic brake switch from the ABS unit down to the rear master cylinder. I would suggest getting one of those rock guards like from Perun. You have to extend the brake light wiring down from the connector under the airbox to the connector at the banjo fitting on the sensor.

•Keep the ABS unit so that you don’t have to mess with any of the electronics. hsbkracing.com sells a pretty cool kit of plugs for this exact situation. Although I would probably recommend just getting M10X1.0 SS bolts to plug the holes. Their kit is $20

• Grab a cheap Shorty brake lever off off Amazon or eBay. I went to Amazon and got a clutch and brake lever kit for $35 and it works just fine and looks pretty cool. Just make sure you get it for the correct master cylinder you buy.

I took it out today and man what an improvement. Many of you off-road/Enduro guys will think the lever is very wooden. But I also race sport bikes on track, so I like a stiffer feel. Will definitely be able to do stoppies now. I typically keep stock rubber brake lines on the rear because of how easy it is to lock up the rear. And that’s the case with this as well. The second I pulled out of the driveway and used it, it locked up. So be very careful if you’re a habitual rear brake stomper. I can tell you this will teach you how to back it in without any interference.

So to sum it up: • used rebuildable axial front master cylinder • wire up new brake light switch • Allballs racing rebuild kit • Core Moto brake lines •hsbkracing.com abs plugs •inexpensive brake lever from amazon or ebay